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Antiques & Design

Dial Tones

By: James Malcolmson

October 2007

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After leaving Jaeger-LeCoultre, Baron worked for a time at Roger Dubuis in Geneva, but her work on various subjects, some of it erotic, very much reflected the personal vision of the firm’s president, Carlos Diaz. Baron really hit her artistic stride when she took a position at the
boutique Geneva watchmaker Delaneau, whose president, Christina Thevanez, is as obsessed with preserving traditional enamel techniques as she is with redefining women’s watch designs. Under Thevanez’s guidance, Baron was able to flourish as an artist capable of capturing a fine level of detail and expression, from the subtle coloration of a butterfly’s wings to the whiskers on a tiger.
While she still performs Geneva-style enamel for Delaneau, much of Baron’s time is now spent as a consultant for Stern Creations, a dial-making company through which she is bringing enamel to new audiences.

One of its clients, Van Cleef & Arpels, released some of this work last year in its "Lady Arpels Centenary" watch, which features a hand-painted enamel disk, only a part of which can be seen as it slowly rotates once per year. These pieces, like the work of Merczel, are fired less than the Geneva process, and are abstract, an area the traditional painters rarely touch.

Perfectionists like Thevanez, whose company, Delaneau, manufactures pieces in much more limited series, are quick to point out the difference. "True Geneva enamel should be perfectly smooth on the surface with no rough spots," she explains. "You can easily tell the difference if you look carefully."

Pieces like the "Lady Arpels Centenary" and its newer variants can made in much larger series at a more affordable price, because they do not require so many firings and can be executed by Stern Creation’s larger staff of young artisans. They have also achieved a level of commercial success that still eludes traditional pieces, particularly in the United States, where large series of branded pieces can be marketed much more easily than exquisite one-of-a-kind creations. In so doing, they offer the possibility of further life for all the techniques and for future enamelists to learn the craft.
"It was so hard for me to learn what I know," Baron says. "It has been wonderful to be able to pass it along."

James Malcolmson has been writing about the Swiss watch industry for more than 10 years. A frequent contributor to Robb Report, Chicago Social, Angeleno, Celebrated Living and several others, he visits the factories and workshops in Switzerland several times annually.

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