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Antiques & Design

Of Rabbits and Carats

By: Brook S. Mason

December 2006

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Yard's acclaim has been boosted in recent years by exposure on the museum circuit. In August 2004, the New York–based National Jewelry Institute showcased Yard pieces in "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" at the American Folk Art Museum. "His pins of rabbits sparked a giggle for the design and pure admiration for the craftsmanship," says Judith Price, the institute’s founder.

Talk about affecting prices. When Yard's whimsical rabbits, one with ruby trousers and a tailcoat

"Fantasy House," late 1920s/early 1930s, yellow diamonds, cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds
 and enamel, $28,000.

with its collar edged in emeralds, landed on the block at Christie's New York in April 2005, the usually sedate auction room erupted into a frenzy of bidding. Though only estimated at a modest $8,000-$12,000, the pin raced to $86,400 and established a record price for Yard.

"That kind of demand is pushing up the estimates for Yard's creations," says Lingon. With jewelry auctions slated for December, many clients will be on the lookout for the perfect Yard holiday present. But auction-goers should not expect a bevy—or even a trickle—of Yard creations. Only one or two per sale, if that, turn up at Christie's, Lingon reports. "As his jewelry is frequently handed down in families, it rarely makes it into the salesroom," she says.

Those who miss a vintage piece may take comfort in the later Yard creations. "We've kept up with fashion, but we're never dictated by fickleness,” says Gibson. The Deco taste morphed in the ’50s into a predilection for brooches resembling sprays of flowers. By the ’60s, almost-Technicolor bouquets in a riot of rubies, yellow diamonds and emeralds were popular.

The Yard measure of invention continued to flourish. A piece made in 2000 represents a mallard duck in flight with a gleaming emerald head, body of yellow and white diamonds and wing feathers edged in sapphires. Examples from this year also include a diamond brooch that looks like a pert tied bow.

These days, the firm keeps its allegiance to the exacting standards laid down by the master. An assured sense of scale, flawless settings and exacting workmanship allied with the very best stones prevail in the contemporary versions. Present-day Yard jewelry relies less on the strict geometry than it did in Art Deco days, but, says Gibson, the pieces remain 99-percent platinum set.
That adherence to standards has paid off, as many of Gibson's clients are second- and third-generation fans. "That's just another continuing link in the engaging Yard history," says Gibson.


Brook S. Mason is
Art & Antiques’ chief correspondent who specializes in the art market.

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