Preventive Medicine
November 2006
There are two cardinal rules for antique jewelry: Know what you have and know how to care for it. Not as easy as it sounds, however.A woman recently sought an appraisal for a 12-plus-carat antique emerald ring, estimated to be
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Round, brilliant cut 2.78-carat diamond. |
“All that was required was that the right people look at it, treat it and handle it,” says Janece White, assistant vice president of Chubb and a GIA-accredited jewelry professional. “So the stone, which was almost written off, was re-enhanced and restored to its original value for a couple of thousand dollars. And while rubies and sapphires are worth less when enhanced because they can be found in a perfect natural state, emeralds often have imperfections.”
The worth of antique jewelry is tied to three factors: the cost of the materials in the piece, how popular is the style currently and its provenance. When in doubt, always consult a well-credentialed appraiser with expertise in antique jewelry.
Gem expert Robert Aretz was suspicious of a blue brooch brought to him for valuation with a handwritten note saying “Mother’s Aquamarine Pin.” The color bothered him. Testing revealed that the stones were diamonds, not aquamarines. The GIA confirmed that the diamonds’ color was a natural, intense blue, and the proper identity significantly changed the monetary value (and, possibly, the sentimental value). Aretz points out that items handed down through the family can be misidentified, and the mere fact that estate jewelry is found in a safety deposit box does not necessarily speak to its esteem or value.
Antique jewelry must be accorded the respect that its age has earned. “Modern jewelers, no matter how skilled, do not understand antique jewelry and can destroy the value of a piece that, properly restored, would maintain its value,” says Robin Kaplan of Arthur Guy Kaplan. “Hallmarks can be removed, enamel cracked, and hard solder used—all of which devalue a piece of good older jewelry. Excessive heat can melt filigree, crack stones or discolor gold. Today, many antique repair professionals use lasers to fix antique jewels, which are particularly effective because no heat is used.”
CLEANING
Antique jewelry should be cleaned and polished by a professional familiar with antiquities. While touch-up cleanings may be done at home—carefully—it is possible to over-clean (with ultrasound cleaners), and the piece will lose its patina and antique blush. “Cleaning antique jewelry on a regular basis is more effective than having it done only once a year by your jeweler,” cautions Aretz. “Dirt attracts more dirt.”
Experts suggest the following home-care cleaning tips:
Beware of cleaners into which you “dip” jewelry. They should be used only for solid gold, platinum or silver. Sonic baths may affect some stones (heat-treated or dyed), soldered joints or old repairs. It is not wise to immerse more porous stones (lapis lazuli, pearls, turquoise, opals) or
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Russian .27-carat faceted sapphire. |
Diamonds may be safely washed with a mixture of one part ammonia, five parts water, and a little dishwashing liquid. If very dirty, soak overnight. Jewelry cleaner is acceptable if there are no colored stones. If the diamond has been clarity-enhanced, omit the ammonia from this mixture. (To remove too-tight diamond rings, soak your hand in glass cleaner, such as Windex, and slowly turn the ring in circles to slide it off. Use an ammonia-free product for colored stones.)
Paste cleaners are best when cleaning silver. Liquid cleaners are stronger and more toxic. Ivory absorbs color, so apply with a plain, warm cloth (color-free) and water—no soap. It is not advisable to clean antique seed pearls, emeralds, opals or foil-backed stones at home. Before cleaning, check the mounts and settings to be certain that there are no loose stones or prongs.
STORING
Store each piece of delicate antique jewelry individually to prevent scratches and scrapes. Trays with separate inserts, jewelry boxes with individual compartments, or even custom-built safes, as well as lined boxes, silk and felt pouches, all will protect jewelry from dirt and harm. Hard and sharp objects (diamonds and metal) should not come into contact with softer materials (pearls or coral). Diamonds can scratch other diamonds, pearls can abrade other pearls, etc. Wrapping in tissue paper is never recommended because of the danger of accidental discarding.
“More robust cast pieces can be kept in flannel bags or heavy-gauge Ziploc plastic bags,” suggests Joan Boening, president of James Robinson Inc. “For safety reasons, some people store jewelry in freezers or other damp places, which is definitely not advised in the case of antique jewelry.”
Faceted stones must not abut gold and silver. (Do not put a diamond ring in with your gold chains.) Silver should not be kept in plastic because of its tendency to tarnish and discolor. It should be kept in tarnish-resistant pouches, which will eliminate the need for too frequent cleaning; oxidation cloths are very helpful.
HANDLING AND MAINTAINING
Prongs, filigree and clasps are delicate, making it inadvisable to wear your antique jewelry when doing chores, gardening, using exercise machines or engaging in sports. “Jewelry should never be pushed or pulled too hard, and prong-set rings should be turned over when putting on gloves or when taking off knit clothing, where the fibers might loosen stones,” says Boening. “If using a cane, avoid putting pressure on any ring.”
When a piece is noticeably worn or damaged, do not wait until it breaks or loses a stone. If an area is getting “thin,” find a restorer who can build it up. (Look at his work; get references.)
Gold is soft and easily dented, and many older pieces are hollow. “Pieces like pocket watches should never be snapped shut,” says Kaplan. “The force of the closure can shatter the crystal and erode the gold case.” She suggests pushing down on the stem and gently closing, releasing when the cover is in place.
Chlorine will pit gold and silver over time (platinum is not affected). If you wear your antique jewelry in a swimming pool, rinse it well afterwards. Salt water will not have this effect, but ocean swimming is not recommended when wearing jewels. In addition, sand is abrasive and can scratch gold and colored stones. Do not despair of scratches on any stone. Diamonds, jade, amber, tanzanite, sapphires, tourmalines and most other stones can be re-polished; diamonds also can be recut to remove chips.
It is always a good idea to open jewelry over a soft, cushiony surface or while sitting at a table or desk with a cloth underneath. Pearls should be restrung every two years if regularly worn. If they are stored for long periods, they will dull. Since they are organic, they are subject to corrosion from body oils and chemicals (avoid their coming into contact with perfumes, hairspray and makeup).
INADVERTENT DAMAGE
Accidents can and will happen, no matter how careful we are, which is why it is important to have access to a talented antique jewelry expert. When Arthur and Robin Kaplan met a valued customer in London, she related that while on vacation she had lost one of a precious pair of antique earrings given to her by her husband. He had returned to their room after searching the hotel lobby with good news—and bad: He had found the earring on the floor—after stepping on it and crushing it. The Kaplans called in their restoration specialist, who repaired the damaged piece immaculately. A year later, they received another call from the woman, informing them that the same disaster had struck a second time. “To this day,” laughs Robin Kaplan, “we cringe when she calls!”
Susan Breitner has been writing about antiques and the art market for more than 15 years.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
►Chubb Group of Insurance Companies
Warren, N.J.
908.903.2000
►Robert Aretz Gem Appraisers & Consultants
New York
212.333.3122
►James Robinson
New York
212.752.6166
►Arthur Guy Kaplan Antique Jewelry/Fine Collectibles
Baltimore, Md.
410.752.2090
►Fred Leighton
New York
212.288.1872
Bellagio Hotel,
Las Vegas, Nev.
702.693.7050
►Books
Official Identification and Price Guide to Antique Jewelry,
Seventh Edition by Arthur Guy Kaplan (House of Collectibles).
►Jewelry Supply Houses
www.jewelrydisplay.com
www.kassoy.com